Trapped by a Storm

Trapped by a storm.

Monday Sept 24th, a week ago, I set out for a solo three day sail in my 42 ft ketch. The forecast was for NE winds 10 to 15 knots, 20 to 30Km. I needed to be back by Wednesday night to avoid a storm with winds forecast up to 35knots 70km on Thursday.

Our local 40 mile of coast is listed as natural park. It has unspoiled cliffs, hills, headlands, beaches little bays. Except  for 5 small villages, 4 light houses, some old castles and a few dotted houses. There are three harbours. Garrucha 10 miles north. Carboneras where we live.  San Jose  20 miles south. 

There are a few of safe anchorages from reasonable NE winds and others from SE/SW winds. None for both winds.

The unspoilt land is very similar to how the Romans, later the African and Turkish pirates and Nelson’s fleet saw it, years ago.

My plan was to sail during the day, anchor each afternoon, read and write and sleep at night.  My first night was to be at Isle de Morro, a small village with a anchorage protected by a large rock, (island). I found that the sea was unduly disturbed so went another 5 miles and managed to get the last berth in the very small harbour of San Jose. 

Next morning, after a peaceful night I had a nice sail and returned to Isle de Moro. The sea was calm, so I anchored in the afternoon wrote and read.

Wednesday morning the forecast was for stronger winds late evening. Mid-morning I headed out to go home, typically 4 hours. But, once past the protection of the island I found the wind had already increased to 25 knots and was gusting to 30 Knots 60 Kms from dead ahead. Worse, the waves were vertical, 1 to 1 1/2  meters high  spaced at about 5 seconds. Even with the motor the combined effect was to stop the boat moving forward at more  than 1.8 knots.  Also the wave were shaking the boat violently and I was concerned for the rigging.  It would take at least 10 to 12 hours to get back to Carboneras.

My option was to find a safe harbour or head out to sea with very small sails and the wind coming from about 60 degrees and expect to stay out 3 or 4 days.  Isle de Morro was not an option in that wind. I turned back to San Jose. The harbour master informed me via the radio they were full. I entered anyway and they took pity when I argued that no one was going to leave the harbour, so no one would be buying fuel. They allowed me to moor to the fuel pontoon. 

Even in the harbour, the sea was going up and down. The pontoon was side to the wind so pushed the boat onto the pontoon. It required all the fenders I had the protect the boat from the pontoon.

Wednesday night the winds increased to gusting 40 knots, 80 Km and I was up most of the time adjusting bow, stern and spring lines. 

Thursday, Friday and Saturday the winds were between 25 and 35 knots and the seas outside the harbour where white.

A further problem was that Francesca and I had planned a party to celebrate our wedding anniversary on Saturday. We changed it to Sunday, and then to this coming Sunday.

One good thing is that there are a number of good restaurants in San Jose harbour.

Saturday the wind dropped to 20 knots gusting 30, but the waves remained big. Francesca and our friend Amalia drove to visit and we had a nice lunch in one of the harbour restaurants.

Sunday morning at 4am the wind suddenly stopped. The morning light showed the waves were small and manageable. By 8.30 local boats were lining up wanting fuel so I headed out into head winds of only 6 knots and was back in Carboneras harbour by 1:30.

Lesson learned: Give more safe time if a storm is forecast.